This quaint deconsecrated church is the oldest building in
north-west Gwent, and the site on which it stands was no
doubt utilised before Christianity came to Britain.
Tradition has it that the first Church on the site was a
wooden structure built in the fifth century.
However, the first written reference to the Church comes
from a ninth/tenth century poem. This date ties in with
current archaeological thinking which acknowledges the
curvilinear church yard as indicative of the pre-Norman
period. The existing stone font is believed to be
contemporary to this phase. The Church was rebuilt by the
Cistercian Monks (an order whose economy relied on sheep
farming) in the late twelfth century and much of the fabric
of the present building dates to that period. The Church was
originally dedicated to Hylledd but why the dedication was
altered has yet to be discovered.
The Church which is a Grade II listed building underwent
some drastic changes in the mid 19th Century when the bell
tower was erected and the attractive cradle ceiling was
constructed. A second period of renovation followed in 1891
when the original tombstone floor was replaced with
intricately patterned tiles.
Recent History
The Church remained in service until 1957 when it was closed
due to opencast coal working in the vicinity. When this came
to an end in 1962 it was found that the building had badly
decayed. The Church in Wales decided to close the Church
permanently because of the poor state of repair and
dwindling attendances.
The building passed into private ownership in 1984. The
Borough Council became increasingly concerned with the state
of the Church and subsequently used statutory powers to
acquire it.
The Renovation
The Borough urgently set about a programme of restoration,
with financial assistance from Cadw. Specialist architects
and builders were employed to carry out the work, and
trained archaeologists were brought in to excavate the floor
of the Church. This work resulted in the discovery of a
brick-built underfloor heating duct (1890); a low stone wall
(possibly the base of a rood screen); parts of two inscribed
grave stones; a quantity of disarticulated human bones and a
number of undisturbed graves two of which were fully
excavated (the others were buried at a depth which would not
be disturbed by the new floor). All human remains were
reburied within the Churchyard.
Once the excavation was complete, the renovation work began.
It was decided to use traditional methods and materials
wherever possible, and when more modern techniques had to be
used they were incorporated into the framework of the
building in the most unobtrusive manner possible. One
example of this is a concrete girdle inserted within the
existing fabric of the building to stop the weight of the
roof from forcing the walls apart.
Now the Church is a focal point for visitors to this, one of
the most interesting and intriguing areas of the Borough:
for the Church is only part of what is on offer.
St Illtyd, The village
To the south-west of this site is an ancient mound which is
on private land but can be viewed from the road. Many
theories and stories have evolved to explain its existence;
some say it is a Norman motte, others that it is the grave
of a warrior or a beacon mound. One legend accredits it to
local giant named Ithel who was in the area collecting
stones in his apron with which to build a residence at
Llanhilleth. As he passed this site his apron strings broke
and the stones tumbled to the ground forming the heap.
At the rear of Castle Cottages are the remains of two
buildings, one circular and one cruciform in shape. These
were excavated by Trevor Lewis in the 1920's and he
interpreted them as being fortified medieval buildings. The
name given to these - Castell Taliorum, probably derived
from Castel Tal y Rhun (the castle in front of the head).
However, Archdeacon Coxe (1801) imagined the name as being
indicative of a Roman fortification. No archaeological
evidence has ever been found which supports this claim.
Local legend does link the area to the Romans, claiming that
they walked along the ridge to and from Caerleon during
their attempts to subjugate the Welsh, but this has yet to
be proved, or disproved for that matter.
Whatever the truth of the above, there is no doubt that
drovers have crossed the mountain near to this spot for many
centuries, and their tracks form the basis of the many
footpaths which explore the mountain spur.
Why not visit St Illtyd ?
The Friends open St. Illtyds to visitors on Sunday
afternoons from Easter to the end of September between 2
p.m. and 5 p.m. Please contact us in advance, if you are travelling a long distance to visit us, as very occasionally our team of volunteers are not able to cover one or both of a particular Sunday afternoon's sessions.
The building is also available as a venue for concerts and
events.
Visits can be arranged for larger groups at other times by
appointment.